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Posts Tagged ‘olympics’

Theories on Vancouver’s Fashion Industry – 6 months later

Thursday, February 25th, 2010

The following is an excerpt taken out of my previous blog. I wrote it in August 2009 as I started approaching the start of my 4th year. Now I am 2 months away from finishing, and the latter half of this post recaps what these months of my education and the Olympics being in Vancouver have brought to my perspective on Vancouver’s fashion industry.

One of my daily reads, The Business of Fashion, came out with a post earlier this month, Vancouver’s new Fashion Cycle. I thought, cool, an article about Vancouver and fashion! Turns out the article had slightly more to do with lifestyle than solely fashion, but put a lot out there for me to think about. As part of my program, we have to design a collection in 4th year based off a niche market. In other words, we can’t just design what we “feel like” designing – we have to prove that there is a viable market and an underserved niche. A few years ago, this may seem more like a hindrance to students who think that all they want to design are pretty dresses for “real women”, and by real women, they are thinking women who look and dress like celebrities and socialites. When I first applied to the program almost 4 years ago, the concept of a niche market was foreign to me, a criteria for a school project, at best.

There is a lot to say and observe when it comes to Vancouver’s fashion scene, one that I think links a lot more to lifestyle than the traditional fashion capitals do. Vancouver seems to be starting to make an appearance on the list of “hot” cities on the international cultural who’s-who and what’s what. We’re young and have so much to build on, with tons of creative energy. What I’ve really noticed is lacking are the resources to really harness that creativity and create a strong industry base that could rival New York or London or even Toronto or Montreal (though organizations like Fashion West, formerly Apparel BC, andFashion High are bravely trying to change that around). We don’t have a centralized location for apparel businesses. You can’t just walk out the door of a fashion company and pop down the street to look at fabrics or get retail inspiration. Everything is so spread apart in this city. I guess that’s because our infrastructure was built primarily before we even had an apparel industry to speak of. Our main purpose as a city is its convenience as a port location between North America and Asia – we weren’t built for manufacturing, we were built around trade. Of course, out of that comes what we are known for now: our beautiful landscape and natural environment. Though, when it comes down to it, what we have is, in my mind, not that unique. We’ve just marketed it well and as a city, have the right balance between an urban setting and a natural, clean, fresh environment, all due in part because of the fact that we are not a very large city in the grand scope of things. And because of this, we’re just the right size to be able to take on the new creative model. And this all leads to my theory, that we are well poised to become a big player in the fashion world not by competing with the traditional model of a fashion capital, but by paving the way for a new one: one that makes sense for the new knowledge economy focusing on holistic aspects of living, not just aesthetics. Gregor Robertson, mayor of Vancouver, is a big advocate of not only sustainability, but creativity as well:

“A world-class city needs to foster entrepreneurial and artistic creativity, and attract innovators from all sectors around the world. It’s time we ditched the red-tape, ‘no-fun city’ label and embraced a culture of creativity, entrepreneurship, and innovation, to help our artistic and small-business sectors thrive in a competitive economy.”

I’m interested in how Vancouver’s fashion industry will play out as this city makes strides forward where many cities have already plateaued. Our fashion industry is not at all big, but yet, we have many internationally recognized companies based out of here. As the article on BOF pointed out, there is huge potential for a niche market in lifestyle apparel for fashionable cyclists in the city. It’s interesting how Vancouver was singled out for this – as I was saying, we are seen as a fresh city with room to grow, and our international presence is about to get bigger with the 2010 Olympics slated to take the city in just a short 6 months.

I am excited to see Vancouverites making a splash on the fashion scene through innovative ways of looking at design, fashion, lifestyle, and marketing. Fashionable cyclist wear is one idea, but there are so many others to be dug up in this city that have to potential to percolate internationally. Plus, the only fashion degree program west of Toronto has as part of its criteria that the 4th year collections be based off a niche market. It’s not just a coincidence; someone was smart, and recognized that doing this was crucial in moving Vancouver fashion forward and creating careers in a city that isn’t known for Veras, Calvins, and Karls. I myself am examining niche markets in deciding my market and vision for my grad collection. Hmm, hmm, food for thought!

So what’s happened since I wrote this post in August of 2009? Well, the world’s spotlight is shining on Vancouver as of this moment, and there are mixed reviews. But of all the various comments from media around the world, this is the one that caught my attention.

From The New York Times:

Why the lack of self-esteem? Canada – snap out of it! You’re gorgeous, baby, you’re sophisticated, you live well. No need for an apology…There may be no more heartstopping view in all the world than the glimpse to the west, toward the distant Strait of Georgia, from the span of Lions Gate Bridge, which links Vancouver to its northern suburbs. The pan-Asian cuisine of British Columbia, built around a bounty from the sea, forest, and prairie, puts London and Hong Kong to shame… Vancouver is Manhattan with mountains. It’s a liquid city, a tomorrow city, equal parts India, China, England, France and the Pacific Northwest. It’s the cool North American sibling. If only, and this holds true for the rest of Canada, it didn’t feel the need to blush.

I don’t feel the need to blush, what the hell are they talking about? This comment only makes me wonder what people the rest of the world over are like. Anyways, since that post some notable things have happened in Vancouver’s fashion industry.

  1. As the spotlight turns to Vancouver, so have the media tried to speak about Vancouver and Canadian fashion. What have they come up with? Aritzia, Lululemon, Roots, Matt and Nat. When I look at the interviews and write-ups, it does give me new perspective. These people really think that our stuff is cool, what a surprise. We think its boring. We think Lululemon is everywhere and therefore boring, but other people just eat this stuff up. One overriding word keeps coming up: lifestyle. Oh, another one: laid back.
  2. And people have taken note that we do in fact have a thriving local independent apparel scene. And they also seem to be taking note of the variety of companies big and small.
  3. The Hudson Bay Company is doing well. After years of barely coasting through, they have come up as one of the clear winners from the games, especially with the infamous Red Mittens. Daily long line ups to get into the Olympic Superstore are a testament to the fact that though the Bay is not cutting edge, it is still Canada’s treasure. I just wish someone would steer the company in a good progressive direction.
  4. Aritzia has also emerged as one of the big players, as an official licensee and designer of the closing ceremony costumes. Their website is all Olympics all the way. Although someone has described the company as a cross between hippie and sporty..interesting.
  5. So um, Vera Wang was in Vancouver… So were Dan and Dean Caten. But Vera Wang, idol and sharer of my last name, was here, and what was she spotted doing? Shopping at Aritzia, of course.

These are some of the things that the Olympics alone have brought to Vancouver fashion, but what about afterwards?

If we were smart, we’d capitalize on the building momentum we have and what Vancouver is now seen as. How could you put it any cooler than Manhattan with mountains? If we need a comparison for people to “get it” then fine. I’d take mountains over no mountains. I don’t think we lack any sort of self-esteem, but perhaps what we do lack is some sort of concrete identity. We have one, of course, but the thing is, much of Vancouver is made up of new generation immigrants. Together, we are what we are, but it is hard to know what that is until someone else with an objective point of view tells us so, and we need enough people to know what we are and act like it for our “brand” to really mean something for the people living in this city.

That brings me to Vancouver and fashion. We already have established some sort of identity when it comes to fashion, and I don’t have to reiterate again just what that is. The thing is, we have so much creativity and youthful energy in this city just waiting to be harnessed, and yet, people in this city literally have to choose between a handful of companies to work with once they graduate. There is little variety in this sense (we have breadth but not depth). So if there is something missing in this city, it has to be spearheaded. If someone is passionate about something, they need to find a way to do it. That’s traditionally how start-ups happen, and there are many great successful start-ups in this city that have come about because of the lack of variety in Vancouver, and somebody coming along and wanting to do something different. I don’t think I am too far off when I say that proportionate to our population, we do have a lot of successful, niche apparel companies. There are a whole lot of smart, creative, energetic young people living here. We are not dying, we are changing and progressive.

I can now feel it – when people come here, they experience something different and they love it. We are unique and beautiful – our fashion industry can be the same. If you really think about it, no two cities have the same fashion industries anyway. There is no second New York, there is no second LA, there is no second Milan. Each fashion city has its own claim and “brand”, its own subtle or pronounced differences. Vancouver has made well so far; we can take it even further once we recognize our strengths and unique beauty as a city more progressive and innovative than most. That is and can be further reflected in our apparel industry.

Contrary to the idea that our local apparel industry is and has been losing out to competitive global outsourcing, my opinion is that manufacturing is not our forte, and should not be our claim to fame. Just because that sector is dying, does not mean that our apparel industry is. In fact, it gives us further opportunity to really thrive. I’ve always said that during the economic recession, companies that are meant to be cut will be cut. As we progress as a city, what we can’t do well and better than other places will be cut from our repertoire. Throughout my four years at Kwantlen, there has been continuous talk of a changing apparel industry, one that we should try to support by manufacturing domestically in order to keep things “alive” if we decide to go at it on our own as designers. Why not go further and instead of fighting for the past, spearhead our industry towards the future?

There are still many questions to ask of Vancouver’s fashion industry that all are inter-related to our relative youth and lack of awareness when it comes to our identity, such as:

  • Why do the fashion weeks fail to make a long-lasting impression on our fashion industry?
  • Why are there so many creatives failing to make it because in order to “make it” they must take low or no-paying jobs, and continue to do so until they can no longer support their art? This happens everywhere, but Vancouver in particular seems to be a breeding ground for this. There are either people who have made it or people who are surviving and trying to make it, and hardly anyone in between.

As I graduate in the coming months, I am consciously aiming towards creating a future for myself that aligns with what I’d like to see happen in Vancouver’s fashion industry. That means that I do see myself as an intrepid entrepreneur, doing something to fill a gap that I see in the market, and using my position as a Vancouverite as part of my brand. I’m sure it shows through anyway, but what I mean is using that concept confidently, as if I am proud of the fact (which I am), going back to the New York Times’ commentary.

There has never been a better time to be a creative person in Vancouver.

The Weekly: Robson Square during Vancouver 2010

Thursday, February 18th, 2010

Today I decided to head downtown at night to get in on some of the Olympic spirit. Sis and I headed straight to Aritzia Pacific Centre for some Park Life, after passing through Holt’s for some browsing. We tried to get into the Olympic Superstore at the Bay, but the line-up was unbearably long!

Anyway, here are a few shots from the night:

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The cutest store window at Pacific Centre has to go to Le Chateau: Thank you Mark Twain for the lovely compliment!

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The view at the Vancouver Art Gallery includes a hand-painted mural by Taiwanese artist Michael Lin:

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For more, click here.

Surrey 2010 Celebration Site’s Kwantlen Designer Showcase

Tuesday, February 16th, 2010

As I mentioned in previous posts, I participated in the Surrey 2010 Celebration Site’s Kwantlen designer showcase from Feb 12-14. Enjoy the pics from the event – I wish I could’ve taken more, but I took a few shots and my camera died. This was before the hustle and bustle of the crowd came in (trust me, there were a lot more people there! haha). We had an equal mix between creative pieces that made use of reworked fabrics and textiles, as well as market-specific winter coats designed for The Hudson’s Bay downtown.

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Designer Credits, From Top: Jessica Lim, Chauntelle Walsh, Maggie Harding.
Organizer Credits: Eri Akai, Mary An Kennedy, Maggie Harding.

For more, click here.